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I will preface that experiences will vary greatly department to department. In my area, I'm granted a lot of leeway, and not overly micromanaged. While corporate politics exist everywhere, the overall environment where I work is quite good. Benefits provided by the company are quite good, 401k contribution (automatic not just a match), stock purchase plans, good healthcare.
Pay is not the best, HR is the tail that wags the dog and often times stifles management and makes it hard to retain talent. If you're in the beginning of your career (less than 10 years), you will likely have to leave to get your pay to where it should.